Saturday, December 31, 2011

(Posted a day late due to internet issues)
There are many reasons for camping, and the universality of this pastime mean that sometimes campers clash. Whereas I might like peace and quiet, the freedom of being in a natural environment and the ability to go to bed with the sun, young campers sometimes prefer the freedom to catch up with friends and share a slab or two.
Now, some campsites attract boring old farts like me, some just families and others the party crowd. While I jostled for position at the amenities sink last night with three teens applying makeup (while I was trying to do my teeth before bed) I got the distinct impression that campsite might be the latter. I was correct and I found myself (for the first time) calling to turn my neighbours in. It WAS midnight, and I HAD been guessing the answers to their charades for the past hour or so... so that’s my excuse.

A disproportionate number of singlets, tats and stubby holders give me the impression tonight might be a repeat performance. A group of youngsters next door have been chugging the beers for the last few hours which has affected their hearing and an increase in decibels and words beginning with F.  It’s not even dark yet.
Between my tent and the loud ones is a family on their first ever camping adventure. The six-year-old girl rode without training wheels for the first time this afternoon, and the delight on her face was electric. At 8.30pm, I imagine she and her brother are getting ready for bed... just as the volume increase.  It makes me wonder: should campsite be divided into experience requirements just like cemeteries are divided into religions?  Maybe ‘family, nature or party’ would do it!

Penguin Parade

(Posted two days late... internet connection poor!)
What a spectacular day this was. First I took a walk to the gorge. The walking track was really poorly marked and I took a few wrong turns, but made it to the overgrown lookout eventually. The journey was more fun than the destination with lovely wildflowers and butterflies. If I had come in another month, the blackberries would have been ready to pick!

I packed up and bade goodbye to my new friends then headed into Lakes Entrance. Only 20km away, it was extremely busy and hard to find a place to park. I didn’t stay long. I had a date to keep. My mentor Stephen Lamble and his wife Lyn were only a few short hours down the road in their caravan. I hadn’t seen Stephen since he quit uni six months ago (with health issues) and decided to travel the country, so I was convinced we had a few travel tales to share.

How lovely it was to swap stories over a cup of coffee. They had been in Western Queensland, down the middle, and now exploring Victoria. Next they were heading to Tasmania then across the Nullarbor. We reluctantly parted so I could make my way to Phillip Island to set up before dark, and make another date with the penguins.

I grew up in England in a town called Cowes, and it was like being transported back in time arriving on the island.... all the place names from the Isle of Wight had been transported with me... Cowes, Ventnor and many more!

“It is really commercial” my mother had said. “We used to just walk amongst them when we were kids” was Stephen’s reply. Both are true, yet, if you can see thorough the crowds, this attraction is world class AND it has actually saved the penguin colony here, so it is environmentally friendly too.
This evening was sold out which means about 3000 people had come to see the little penguins (or fairy penguins if you are from NZ) in action. Everyone gathered in the visitor centre – a huge mall-like structure with eateries, toilets, shops and penguin displays. I grabbed an MP3 player and headphones with a commentary and headed down the boardwalk.

As you walk well above the sand dunes, penguin burrows dot the landscape. Most of the penguins are not there until after dark though. As I walked, they were gathering in ‘rafts’ at sea and waiting for the cover of darkness to make their way ashore. At this time of year, many of them had been gorging on fish to regurgitate for their young hidden well inside their burrows.

At dusk it happened. They started wandering up the beach in formation, right past our viewing area. Now I could see why they call this a parade. These creatures are small, with dark blue feathers and waddle much as you would expect... sometimes stopping for a two-minute cat-nap until the penguin behind knocks into them.
Watching them arrive was extraordinary, but wandering back up the boardwalk and waddling alongside them way my favourite. Although they were on the other side of a barrier, they were within touching distance and it feels like taking the dog for a walk! Right at the top of the walkway, the throng of people ground to a halt as an errant penguin crossed from one side to another. Fancy – a penguin crossing!

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Hidden treasure at Mingling Waters

Ah, I am stuffed... partly from driving, but mostly from the feast produced by my wonderful neighbour Judy who invited me for dinner!

What a busy day it was. First I pedalled around Merimbula Beach taking pictures, then packed the trailer in glorious weather, and headed into town with a map dotted with things to see courtesy of the wonderful staff at the caravan park.

Bar Beach is a wonderful place for small kids so I started there. On to town where the parking fairies were hard at work and I managed to find TWO parking spots next to each other, right in the middle of town. The information centre was helpful, and the Waterfront restaurant a real winner... then on to Fishpen Road where I discovered a wonderful bike track with pelican sculptures on poles in the water.

It was noon before I finally dragged myself away from Merimbula and headed south. First stop the Eden Whale Museum, then continuing south. What beautiful scenery as I crossed into Victoria! And then again when I crossed the Snowy River!

Tonight I was welcomed by Mike at Mingling Waters, 20km north of Lakes Entrance. It doesn’t  look much from the road, but this place is a real treat. Fluffy couches in the camp kitchen, a partially renovated amenities and individual old cabins add to the charm, but its the waterway that tops it off. The water here is a constant 28 degrees, fed by an underground spring. Tent up, and neighbours met, I dropped the kayak in the water and headed out for a paddle and a swim (the latter sinking up to my knees in the soft mud). As I dragged the kayak back, my neighbour Judy invited me for dinner and the rest, as they say, is history. Two hours later my list of places to visit has expanded (especially due to Drew from Bendigo!), and I have made new friends! Ah, the joys of camping...

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

On the road again!

I felt very mothered this morning (in a good way) as I headed away from Sydney with individual packages of Christmas cake, a butter container full of carved ham and three people waving madly as I pulled from the driveway.  For the next few days I will make my way south, much like the Sydney to Hobart boats I watched exit the Heads yesterday... and I will initially follow their course.

I had imagined I would drive down the coast but Jessie the GPS (who leads me astray often) decided Canberra was the fastest way to Merimbula, so that’s the way we went. Probably a good choice because i was able to get some good miles under my belt without stopping at every beautiful vista along the way.
From Cooma, however, the road was new to me as it wound down from the Snowy’s to Bega. It was spectacular too so my progress slowed... first as I stopped at a duck pond for lunch, then at the stunning Fred Piper lookout where I took a short rainforest walk.

I couldn’t resist satisfying my tastebuds at the Bega factory and arrived at the Big4 Merimbula Beach at around 5pm with a heavy southerly blowing and the Sydney to Hobart fleet beating against it as I tried to get my awning up. It’s all about technique: for them and me both...

What a lovely caravan park this is... the cabins all have million dollar views, there are two pools, a games room for older kids, movies at night, jumping pillow, playground, shop and cafe... more like a resort really!
So, I toast those sailors sitting on the rail with constant salt spray in their faces, and thank goodness I saw the light and gave up sailing for camping! Cheers chaps!

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Last day on Heron

 I woke early with the overwhelming desire to try and pack as much as possible into this last day. While the kids and Mel slept I went for wander down the beach following the turtle tracks from the night before. The early morning light cast shadows on them, making them look like deep 4x4 tyre marks.

Only a few hundred metres down the beach I came across a track which didn’t lead to the ocean and discovered a stranded turtle, left behind when the tide receeded. I sat with her for a while wondering what to do. Then headed off to the research station to alert the troops.

The research station was almost deserted, but I found someone who said this is pretty common… she would make her own way back to the water and was probably just resting. So, I cut back through the bush to our room. The occupants were still asleep, so I headed for the restaurant for a cuppa, returning with mugs of hot chocolate and a strong coffee for Mel.

Once they had sipped their treats, and their eyes opened, everyone wanted to go see the turtle, so we wandered down the beach again and sat watching her as she slowly made her way back to the turquoise ocean. What a special treat this was on our last day. Follow this with a mega breakfast, and a last snorkel near the harbour, and it rounded off our visit very nicely.

Friday, December 9, 2011

Day two: Heron Island

How could we possibly top yesterday? But top it we did.

Amazingly, Amber found Molly, a girl in her class at school, who was also on the island this morning. Sharks cruised the reef at breakfast and it wasn’t long before I was swimming after them again. The girls practiced snorkeling in the pool before braving the harbour where we snorkeled with over 30 rays. Ever since Steve Irwin died, Amber has been very nervous of rays, so she was pumped to get over this fear and discover how placid they really are.

After another mega feast at lunch (I will certainly go home heavier), we walked across the island together with Molly. The kids discovered if they screamed, it set off all the Noddy Terns, so they delighted in starting an environmental riot.

Shark Bay was a postcard. There is no other way to describe it. Unfortunately, it was low tide when we arrived, and the sharks had retreated, so we vowed to return tomorrow morning and instead lounged on the beach, climbed the trees and found last year’s turtle eggs in the sand.

Walking back along the beach was a struggle in the afternoon sun, so we retreated to our rooms for a reprieve. Here the kids decided to create their very own spa and charges $3 for massages… delightful!
Amazingly, we were hungry again at dinner time. No idea how! We were, however, too tired to search for turtles and flopped into bed soon after stuffing ourselves!           

Monday, December 5, 2011

Day one: Heron Island

The day we had long awaited was finally here…

My best friend Mel, her daughter Tea, Amber and I were off to Heron Island. It had long been on my bucket list.  Now, a week later, we are still telling stories of our adventures… so let me share a few!
Let’s start with the journey.

Gladstone is the jumping off point for Heron Island which is a long two hour journey due east on the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. This length of time on a boat could be daunting, but we were lucky and hit a completely glassy day. Even Tea (who’s a bit unsure of the rocking) braved the bow and squealed in delight as we rose and fell over the miniscule swell. Regardless, I still recommend giving the kids a Kwell well before the journey because they don’t work once you start feeling ill.

As we approached this tiny atoll, we were joined by dolphins, spotted 13 turtles and numerous rays. The ocean was so clear we could see coral on the bottom as we slowed through the man-made channel through the reef.

First impressions of this island were extraordinary. Turquoise ocean fused into white coral sand; the incessant sound of Noddy Terns nesting on every limb of every tree; the tremendously bad smell of their poo as you walked up to the resort; jumping up from lunch to watch sharks and rays cruise the reef. It was serious sensory overload!
After unpacking we donned our snorkel gear and headed for the reef. Amber and Tea were, understandably, reticent after seeing sharks moments before, but they gave it a go. When they couldn’t handle their fear any more, Mel and I continued on our own and weren’t disappointed… Mel spotted her first shark and didn’t completely freak! I, on the other hand, am a little mad, and chose to chase it with my video camera… the shark trying really hard to get away…

This was Mel’s birthday and the evening meal was the weekly seafood buffet. I think she downed a dozen oysters before I even finished my first bug…  Top it off with the birthday cake we ordered ahead, and Happy Birthday from the resident singing duo, and she was on cloud nine!

THEN we wandered down the beach to find turtles laying eggs… and wondered if day two could ever get better than this???  Tune in tomorrow to find out!